Technology ~ DIY–Thinkware F770 Installation [Mod 09], 08/23 & 08/24

Installation complete–with hiccups.

There were 2 challenges:

  1. Fishing out the rear camera micro-USB connector–SOLUTION: Reduced its thickness using a Dremel Sandpaper Band, the make pretty with heat-shrink tubing.
  2. Using the best accessory fuse in the fuse block for the supplied fuse-jumper. I selected the 50amp ignition [based on reading] fuse. For what-ever-the reason, my choice and accent lighting did not work well together. After driving to my electronics store I was not able to start the van. It was towed to my Ford Dealer. There, they determined the 5-amp fuse was blowing and deduced it was caused by the accent lighting wiring [see their invoice in the 1st comment]. I removed my connection yesterday. It was no longer in the circuit. The foot-well accents lights continue to work. Yes, I had to pay to return to the road. I have connected the Cellink to the 20-amp Washer Pump at position F82. All seems well [as it did yesterday when I left for Brantley Electronics].

All my connections are soldered and protected with heat-shrink-tubing. The exposed color wire at the Cellink will be covered with split-loom tubing.


It is done.


I am pleased with the installation. I do not like the lost time, money, and absence of 2 accent lighting circuits. To be resolved…

Author: jalexartis

Avid cyclist, who loves photography, technology, blogging & cooking...

2 thoughts on “Technology ~ DIY–Thinkware F770 Installation [Mod 09], 08/23 & 08/24”

  1. Over the last 4 days, I have rewired car modifications 07 & 09. I posted this comment earlier:

    I have NOT found a switched [accessory] power point I can use for the Cellink battery, except the ignition fuse I used with a fuse jumper.

    I do not know if using it caused the non-starting of the van that required it being towed for service and cost me $126.20 or if it was the headliner & cargo area accent lighting wiring that the Ford Service Technician RIPPED out.

    Regardless, I rewired both.

    The Dash Cam gets its power from the front cigar lighter, with a 15 amp fuse. The van uses a 20 amp fuse on that circuit. If the Cellink battery draws a more than 15 amps, I want that fuse to blow before the car fuse.

    I now use a lit switch to turn power on/off for the Cellink battery.

    It took a long time–Thursday until Sunday to rewire and work without any possibility of a car-stoppage as before. It was also expensive. The cost of the accent lighting and the Ford Service Fee. I do not place blame. It is my car and I fixed it.


    Interesting that the Cellink instructions seem to not accommodate the 2016 FTC Van [or at least mine]. I am not able to rely on the ignition switch to turn car power off when I park. I have to remember to do so, less I risk draining the battery. I think I will remember. The glowing red LED serves as a reminder.

    If BlackBoxMyCar has a better solution, I will consider it. I initiated 2 support request [one by phone and one by email]. I have not received a reply to either. I will call them again this week.



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