VK2 Setup Detail–Mr. David Elliott, from BROL, said:

“Jim, do you have any pictures of the slots you put in the frame for the FastBack attachment? Also, do you have any pics of the CatEye cyclometer mount attachment and details of what you did to the mount? Thanks. Great pics and info on your blogspot.”

My initial reply on BROL was: Hello David,

Quick answer on the CatEye mount. I have pictures 4-up (above your post) in this thread [03-30-2006 01:31 PM] and in my blog. I did nothing special to the mount it. I positioned it and then used silicon to secure it to the fork.

On the Garmin speed sensor, I separated it from its base, extended the wire, and then secured it to the fork using silicon.

I use heat-shrink tubing to seal my connections, followed by silicon where additional waterproof protection is needed.

I trust this answers the sensor-mount question. If not, please let me know. On slots cut in the frame, I have to take pictures. I post sometime this week.

Thanks for the compliment on my blog.

EDIT: It must be late!

On reread, I do not think I answered the CatEye Cyclometer question.

I drilled a hole in the center of the tiller for the cyclometer mount and then trimmed the mount to ensure it sits flat against the tiller. The cyclometer then goes into the mount from the top. I used the mount so that I can remove the cyclometer if needed.

Maybe I answered the question this time.


Following is the remainder of the answer to his question [I trust this answer will also help others understand the “how”]:I cut 2 slots in the frame and seat for the FastBack LS Hydration pack to be attached without passing straps on the bike’s right side. For the most part the FBLS Hydration Pack straps are concealed. You see them just below the seat pad on the bike’s left-side. In addition I drilled 2 holes, one to anchor [with a small screw (head flattened with Dremel, and now concealed with Velcro–it can be seen in the under-carriage photo below) and nut (also cut flush with Dremel)] the front of the FBLSHP and the other to attach the drinking tubes.

I used a 1.25″ stand-off to get the cords away from the seat pad. This came in handy later. The FBLSHP strap that is to go around the left-side stay is no longer there because my “Cross Creek Cycling Club” name on the left is really positioned ~1″ further forward than I expected. So, in order to not mask the letters, I routed the back strap over the stand-off and secured the Velcro. Actually, for the paint job, I like this attachment much better.Since I have the picture here, let me comment on the other cuts:
Norback Pack, with nose of AirZound Bottle protruding
  • 2 slots for the NiteRider Evolution Smart battery [stored in the FastBack Norback Pack]–this is the rear attachment point for the Norback. I reinforced the slot on the left-side with a piece of carbon fiber because of force at that point. I have a strip of Velcro runs along the length of the pack. The Velcro on the pack is stiched onto the pack. of course this is the pack that holds my AirZound Bottle.
    I drilled a small hole in the frame bottom to route the air tube. This tube exits at the rear-brake and rear-derailleur exit point. Before painting, I enlarged these holes to ease running cables and wires. [When you have the bike from Nov-Jan (month it went to the painter) what is a man to do?]
  • Drilled hole in the seat (pictures above) to route NiteRider rear light wiring, which connects the battery connector on the bike’s right-side just at the cable exit point. That wire is secured to the seat with the screws that anchor the neck rest. I also enlarged the exit point. Those connectors are very neat, having used split-loom tubing to dress up wires & cables. On top of that is a small bag (currently empty) that conceals the connectors and cable exit.

Note: The VK2 has its carbon fiber on the outside surfaces of the frame, i.e., there is air between surfaces; therefore, one modifying the frame, as I have, must make a cut on both sides of the frame, or seat. Further, you’ll have to route straps [rather easily done], wires, or cables [as the case may be] through the various cuts/holes. In some instances this may be challenging. I used a combination of stiff [yet bendable] wire, cord [heavy string], etc to fish my wiring through. Again, the straps were not a problem. Once the routing is done, the results will look good. I have the patience to do this. In this case, I also had the time [as I waited for graphics and painting].

I trust the pictures are sufficiently clear without me having to remove anything.

Please ask any other questions on how or why I did what I did.

It is my pleasure to respond and to share what was going on in my head.

Author: jalexartis

Avid cyclist, who loves photography, technology, blogging & cooking...

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