4 Points of Lights & Triangle ~ Fargo Trailer 8

Trailer night lighting

Earlier [03/01] I took pictures of the trailer night lighting and posted the collage I created of the photographs taken.

Night Lighting torn edges

Four flags and the SMV Emblem [pictured to the left] have been added. The triangle [which meets the ASAE S276.3 Standard] does not meet the more reflective current standard S276.6.

It is difficult to judge using a camera and flash how drivers will see the triangle. I placed my car at the end of my driveway and find the triangle as reflective as the taillights on our other car. That is, the triangle reflect a car’s headlights better than my camera flash. For now, that is fine. Now that I have the plastic triangle, I can purchase a more reflective decal.

Reality is, the DiNotte 140L Tail Lights do a powerful job and will be seen, as well as the lights at the top of the flagpoles.

The SMV triangle says the lights you are approaching are those of a slow moving vehicle.

I took many pictures, but will rely on this one for the discussion I present here. As TyTrike says: "yup…think you got your rear covered… way to go!"

Thanks! –jim

More discussion

My Quad DiNotte Lighting Plan 3

DiNotte will assess [shipped Friday, 01/22 ~ to arrive Wednesday, 01/27] my 400L to ensure they are okay to run at 12-volts [solar powered (Tier One) lighting]. They bench-tested for me and want to take this extra step so that I have no problems. Thanks Rob!

Extracted from my email to Rob:

I plan to run power out of a box the will sit above the rear axle. I’ll place the switches within that box, with a hole for the push-button. The switches will connect directly to the battery bus. I plan to place my lights at the top of the cage, fore [one 1200L & two 400L Amber Headlights] and aft [2 400L taillights] of the blue canopy. I plan a single cable run up the left & right side-members and then split the wiring for the respective lights. Of course, the 1200L has a single dedicated wire. I have one 5” and two 8.5” splitters that are not in use. I do not think I need splitters.

shot10

Switches & Wiring:

  • Switches – 2
  • Wiring:

I think I need two of your longest wires to get power to the two 400L Amber Headlights & the 1200L. I have two 40” wires that are not in use. Of course, I want the minimum cable length possible.

I welcome your advice.

Thanks Rob!

Jim Artis

There you have it!

Noted in my BROL Planning Thread.

Silk [my Catrike 700—CT7225] is sick… 8

During yesterday’s first live stream test [riding Silk], I experienced enough boom movement while pedaling that I decided to remove the boom extension to try to determine why. I’ve always had the 2 clamps tight—very tight to stop this movement. The movement has been with me for more than a year. It seemed to be the result of lots of torque being applied to the pedals when I really wanted to go fast. Yesterday was just too much. I commented on it in the video.

The weld crack is to the upper rightThis morning I removed the boom extension and found a circular crack around the periphery of the boom clamp [collar] indexing tab. This is a weld fail. The analogy I used in my message below is the tab’s movement is “like that of a child’s loose tooth.” I had read about it before on the Catrike Message board in this thread. After my find, I added to that thread to document the failure and serve as a warning to others to inspect their boom clamps periodically. Seeing the crack was not easy. I trust you can see the break in the weld at the 1:00 position in this photo. Two additional photographs are below, following the text of my post to the Catrike Board. Clicking on either will give you an enlargement of that image.

Paulo Camasmie, owner of Catrike, is forthright in honoring and fixing this problem. My purpose is to let this post be a warning to other Catrike owners to inspect and be careful about a failure that can result in an accident.

Related BROL Thread that I started.

Following is my post on the Catrike Message Board and 2 additional pictures: