The LWB quadricycle ~ ATOMIC ZOMBIE Reply

The quad in the video

has been identified in this thread [by Atom & Xray—BROL Members] as an ATOMIC ZOMBIE Creation–The StreetFighter. It is a home build and plans are available here [go to the STREETFIGHTER QUAD {R4C3} Picture, then select INFO].

ATOMIC ZOMBIE Extreme Machines! says:

The StreetFighter is a one-of-a-kind, four-wheeled racing machine that can best be described as half Indy car, half exercise bicycle! The ultra low and laid back recumbent riding position gives you a race car like feel, allowing you to push hard into the corners without fear of a rollover, and to deliver as much power as your legs can output directly into the cranks. If building an extremely cool looking, high quality and fast recumbent cycle is your idea of fun, then the StreetFighter is the perfect choice.

Street Fighter Quad1--photos are from the Atomic Zombie Street Fighter Plans Sidebar Street Fighter Quad2--photos are from the Atomic Zombie Street Fighter Plans Sidebar Street Fighter Quad3--photos are from the Atomic Zombie Street Fighter Plans Sidebar

Yet, more quadricycles from the ATOMIC ZOMBIE Gallery.

BROL Thread on this quad

Two steps forward & Two steps backward 1

This is a bit frustrating…

I achieved a functional way of controlling my DiNotte 140L Tail Lights using a hacked Heath Zenith Wireless Doorbell.

mlite Then, I add 2 flagpole lights that have their own on/off switch. Shucks! That means walking back to the trailer to turn them on & off, unless I wire them to the relay that controls the DiNotte Lights. Hmmm.

If doable [and what is not], that is a mess of wiring and disconnect to remove the flagpoles. Given, my original reason for remote control of lighting, it look like I have another challenge [I mean opportunity] ahead.

Thanks Mt_Top!

It was not easy being black… Reply

The black Pipe

…or yellow, for that matter. Changing PVC pipe from its off white or white to another color can be interesting.

Let’s look at how I did the "small solar panel holder" [another Topeak DeFender™ M2 Fender]. I attached two straight pipes to the boxes by using a screw & nut through a plug glued [with the PVC cement] into the ends. The next section has 2 elbows, 2 straight pieces, a T-connector, and another straight piece at the top. The top is capped with a table leg foot.

 

SMV emblem Now, the black part: I used 2 sections of 3" black heat-shrink-tubing [HST] and then trimmed the end closest to the box. Next, two more short sections to get as close to the "T" as possible, and then, a straight piece from the top, down to the "T". This left an area of white, which is now painted black with a rubber based paint. I fashioned a neat collar to hide the white, but have not used it because I plan to place some type reflector on this appendage—maybe a slow-moving-vehicle [SMV] triangle. It or any other large reflector will hide the paint or collar from normal view. The bottom of an SMV emblem is to be 2′ to 6′ from the ground. I’d be just under that. But, I digress.

I also used two straight sections of black HST on the sections attached to the box. Then the more difficult part: I cut two 3"-sections that overlap the "T" and elbows. The trick was getting the back section on and tapped in before the PVC cement set [which happen rather quickly]. All this, while trying to keep things plumb. The final step was to shrink those last 2 pieces of HST—job complete. By gluing on the back section, I no longer have outside access to the screws. I locked the nuts in place by using a second nut. I do not have to worry about this appendage coming a loose. Just remember, it is not a handle.

Step Five Links:

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